Kande Beach was a real hit with all of us. It’s on the shores of Lake Malawi and the setting is really beautiful. It’s hard to believe you’re on a lake because it just looks like you’re at the seaside – there‘s even surf. Most of the overland trucks go there but that doesn’t spoil the atmosphere because the place is so large, everyone just spreads out. The campsite has lots of established trees, some striking bougainvilleas and lemons, and hammocks. It’s the perfect spot for a few days of relaxing!
Our “short drive” had taken a little longer than we expected so we postponed our pig and party until the next day and other than a Dragoman truck (Oscar el Toro) versus Dragoman truck (Caprice the Sexy Beast) foozball competition, it was a quiet night.
Next day we had a free day to do as we wished: village tours, orphanage visits, canoeing, scuba diving (on the lake) – there were loads of activities on offer. Dave, Janice, Emily and I went horse riding for the afternoon. It was $50 for a two-hour ride and it was money well spent – without a doubt the best riding school ride I have every had.
We were collected from the campground and driven to the stables. The horses were in great condition – fit, healthy, and really well-mannered. My horse was Fergus – he was a little sluggish in the yard but great on the go (happy to run, willing to stop when asked). We rode about ten kilometres through the bush from the stables back to the campground. It was a fairly relaxed pace but we had some great long canters along the way. And the absolute highlight was when we got back to Kande – we took off the saddles and went swimming bareback in the surf. Such a thrill.
We’d been debating whether or not it was sensible to swim in Lake Malawi because we’d heard mixed reports about bilharzia (a treatable but unpleasant condition caused by a parasite which lives in water snails and spreads to humans). We’d been told we shouldn’t swim in water in East Africa that wasn’t fast moving (rivers ok, most lakes not). Where we were staying had a definite current which decreases the risk, but Lake Malawi does carry bilharzia. I decided I wasn’t going in, just to be safe. But then the lure of swimming with the horses was too much – so I’ll have to take the test when I get back to London.
[For anyone reading that plans to visit a bilharzia area I’ve since read more about the condition and have some tips for prevention that I wish I‘d known before... It takes 10-15 minutes for the parasite to make their way through the skin. So if you keep the swim short, shower immediately afterwards (ideally in water that isn’t directly from the lake, or has been treated) and dry yourself vigorously - it should lower the risk of getting the condition. If you are exposed take the test 6 weeks afterwards…]
Our pig had been cooking above hot coals since just after breakfast that morning. The cooks from both the Dragoman trucks had worked together to create a feast of salads and vegetables and meat. So we sat down to an incredible banquet of food. Despite hearing that spits can often be dry, this meat was succulent, the crackling was crunchy and there was loads of it.
Next it was time for us to hand over our silly costumes and get dressed. I was dressed by Denford and got off mildly with a dress I wouldn’t choose to wear on the average night at the pub – but was not too outrageous and actually fitted me like a glove. Tim, on the other hand, was dressed by Emily. The photos will illustrate his look best but he looked like a male ballerina with a condom on his head.
The costumes led to general craziness and some fun drinking games. My favourite was the Vegetable Game. It would take too long to describe the intricacies but the essence is that everyone chooses a vegetable for themselves and the game involves saying the name of your vegetable and then passing the ‘lead’ to someone else in the circle by saying their vegetable, the whole time you’re unable to shut your mouth or show your teeth. So “Butternut squash” ends up sounding like “utt-er-uu awww”. Everyone’s struggles to enunciate without a fully functioning mouth become hilarious, the effect is much like dinner-time table conversation at the average nursing home when the oldies take their teeth out I imagine – with some booze fuelled laughs thrown in for good measure.
